DESIGN OF A STUDY | PLANNING

Once you have met with your Architect, and given your requirements, he will design according to your Site size, budget and site conditions. The main things to look out for in the design solution are:
Whether the minimum, basic study room sizes which are considered comfortable for use and for good furniture arrangement have been maintained. Whether all the planning considerations such as, furniture, clearances, space allowances, doors, windows etc for the Study have been taken into account. Whether the Study location and orientation is according to the cardinal directions, so that it gets the right amount of Sunlight and air.

Here, I have explained the furniture, sizes and clearances in a Study for your reference.

STUDY FUNCTIONS:

• Primary Activites: Studying, Writing, Using the Computer, Storage of files, Reading, Studying, Library.
• Secondary Activities: Used as a Bedroom by a teenager or pre-adolescent child, Storing, Sleeping, Exercising, etc.

PLANNING CONSIDERATIONS FOR A STUDY:

• Size and type of Furniture.
• Space allowance for Furniture.
• Clearance and space around the Furniture for movement.
• Storage space for books, files, clothes, etc

FURNITURE OF A STUDY:

• The Typical pieces of furniture in a Study and their sizes are listed below:
• Desk - 2'6" x 5'0", 2'0" x 4'0"
• Computer Table - 2'0" x 2'3"(smallest), 2'6" x 2'6", 3'0" x 2'6", 3'6" x 2'6" etc.
• Chair - 1'10" x 1'10"
• File storage - 1'4" x 2'4"
• Single Bed - 3'0" x 6'10" (Cramped for an adult but suitable for a child)
• Twin Bed - 3'3" x 6'10" or 3'4" x 7'0" ( Okay for an adult)
• Double Bed - 4'6" x 6'10" or 4'6" x 7'0" (Cramped for 2 adults, but okay for 2 children)
• Dresser or Chest of Drawers - 1'6" x 3', 1'10" x 4'0"
• Bedside Table - 1'2" x 1'2", 1'6" x 1'6", 2'0" x 2'0"
• Closet or Wardrobe - Each shutter size is about 1'6" x 7'0". A 2 shutter Wardrobe is the minimum in a single occupancy bedroom and hence is sufficient in a Study which is also used for sleeping.

CLEARANCES:
To ensure adequate space for movement and the convenient use of furniture in the Study, the following minimum clearances must be observed:

• At least 2" clearance should be allowed between the wall and the furniture.
• A minimum of 3" should be kept between furniture units.
• A minimum of 3'0" space to push back the chair from the Desk and pulling out the desk drawers.
• A minimum of 2'6" for using and arising from a computer table.
• A minimum of 3'6" in front of the file storage for pulling out drawers.
• A minimum of 4'0" in front of the desk/computer table to allow walking past a person seated at the desk.
• At least 3'6" in front of Closet, Dresser/Chest of Drawers to open and use them.
• A minimum of 2'0" on one side of bed to allow for movement and making bed.
• At least 1'0" on the least used side of the bed for making the bed. However, in case of single beds, they can be placed against the wall on the least used side.
• A minimum of 2'6" for movement from the door through the room
• A 5'0" turning diameter for a wheelchair.

STUDY LOCATION:
The study is a private space used for studying, reading, writing, working, sleeping, etc. Hence there is a need for privacy, quiet and peace. It should also be well lit and airy and away from the noisy parts of the house and the rooms where guests are entertained. To get some tips on the best location for Study, go to:

• VAASTU SHASTRA | STUDY ROOM

Related Topics:

• DESIGN OF A STUDY ROOM | ARRANGEMENT
• DESIGN OF OTHER ROOMS IN A HOUSE

DESIGN OF A BATHROOM | PLANNING

In the United States, "bathroom" commonly means "a room containing a toilet". In other countries this is usually called the "toilet" or alternatively "water closet" (WC), "lavatory" or "loo".

Once you have met with your Architect, and given your requirements, he will design according to your Site size, budget and site conditions. The main things to look out for in the design solution are:

• Whether the minimum, basic room sizes which are considered comfortable for use and for good furniture arrangement have been maintained. (It is always important to have a comfortable sized Bathroom as the size cannot be changed later unless you are prepared for large scale renovation).
• Whether all the planning considerations such as, privacy, convenience, facilities, clearances, arrangement, doors and windows etc in the Bathroom have been taken into account.
• Whether the Bathroom location and orientation is according to the cardinal directions, so that it gets the right amount of Sunlight and air.

Here, I have explained the design considerations, furniture and the minimum basic sizes for a Bathroom for your reference.

BATHROOM FUNCTIONS:

• Primary Activities: Washing hands and face, Grooming, Elimination at the WC, Bathing and Storage of bathroom supplies.
• Secondary Activities: Infant care, hand laundering, dressing up, etc

PLANNING CONSIDERATIONS:

• ACCESSIBILITY - A bathroom should be accessible from each bedroom without having to pass through another room.

• ARRANGEMENT- The fixtures in a Bathroom should be conveniently arranged with special consideration given to clearances. More than one family member should be able to use the facilities at the same time. Space is required not only for the use of the fixtures but also between fixtures, for cleaning and assisting another person like an elderly person or child.

• STORAGE - Adequate storage should be provided for current and reserve supplies of bathroom linen, cleaning supplies, toiletries and medicines. Current supplies like bath towels and hand towels can be stored on towel racks near the place of use. Reserve supplies can be stored in a closet just outside the bathroom. A medicine cabinet with a mirror in front, can be fixed above the wash basin. A cabinet with a self-contained hamper for soiled linen and clothes can be provided in a corner.

• VENTILATION - Good ventilation is essential in bathrooms, both to reduce humidity and to dispel odours. Exhaust fans in the wall help to remove the humid air from the toilet while a ventilator will allow fresh air to enter the toilet. When fixing a ventilator, care should be taken to provide privacy while being easily accessible at the same time.

• SOUND CONTROL - Lack of acoustical privacy is one of the most common complaints about toilets. Sound from the bathroom can be reduced by the proper placement of the bathroom in relation to other spaces - closets and storage walls can be placed between it and adjacent spaces. Also, sound can be reduced by the use of sound-proof partitions and tightly fitting doors.

• LIGHTING - The lighting in a Bathroom should be adequate for all the activities. High ventilators, clerestory windows or sky lights will provide excellent illumination during the day time, while still affording privacy. The Ventilators should be of a minimum size of 3'x3'. For grooming, direct sources of light are essential to light up the face from all angles.

• WATER - The design of a bathroom must account for the use of both hot and cold water, in significant quantities, for cleaning the human body. The water is also used for moving solid and liquid human waste to a sewer or septic tank. Water may be splashed on the walls and floor, and hot humid air may cause condensation on cold surfaces. Hence water-resistant materials should be used for flooring and walls. In addition, the floor should slope gradually towards the floor trap in the shower area as well as in the rest of the bathroom.

• MATERIALS -Due to the abundant use of water in the bathroom, ceiling, wall and floor materials and coverings should be impervious to water and readily and easily cleaned. The use of ceramic or glass, as well as smooth plastic materials, is common in bathrooms for their ease of cleaning and water-resistant properties. Generally the walls are tiled only upto 7'0" height since water does not splash above that height. But as an Architect, I suggest that you should tile the entire height of the walls, as otherwise, the walls above 7'0" will get damp with time due to the high humidity levels in the bathroom.

• DOORS AND WINDOWS - Bathroom doors are generally small - only 2'6" wide, but I suggest that you keep it 2'9" wide as it can be uncomfortable when you come out with an infant, or carrying clothes or if you are assisting an elderly person through the door.

• The door should always swing inwards preferably against a wall, such that it does not strike any person using a fixture and it should not hit against any fixture or accessory like a towel rod.
• In a compartmented bathroom it is desirable to have sliding doors between various compartments as they are space savers.
• The inside, lower portion of the door should be covered with a water-proof material to prevent the door from disintegrating.
• The ventilator preferably 3' x 3' in size, should be placed high but within reach to operate.
• It can be located on either side of the wash basin but should not be behind the toilet or over the bathtub.
• The ventilator should open outside as it prevents the rain from entering. It is preferable to have louvered ventilators.

• CHILDREN'S CONVENIENCE - Since the wash basin, toilet heights are fixed for adult heights, it is difficult for children to reach. But it is not practical to keep the wash basin at a lower height just for children unless the bathroom is exclusively for the children. In case the bathroom is shared by adults and children, provision can be made for a step-up retractable stool.

• SAFETY FEATURES - Vertical Grab bars of adequate size should be fixed at a convenient height near the bathtub and the shower. 
• Nonskid finishes should be used for flooring.
• A door lock that can open automatically from the inside and can be opened from the outside in case of emergency should be installed.
• Bulbs and light switches should be located outside the bathtub and shower areas.  
• Electrical appliances, such as lights, heaters, and heated towel rails, generally need to be installed as fixtures, with permanent connections rather than plugs and sockets. This minimizes the risk of electric shock. Ground-fault circuit interruptor electrical sockets can also reduce the risk of electric shock.
• A lock should be provided for the medicine cabinet.

• DRYING FACILITIES - Racks for drying women's light laundry may be provided. These racks can be concealed in well-ventilated cabinets, provided with a low-wattage bulb, to facilitate drying.

•  MIRRORS - Mirrors are necessary in a bathroom for grooming. They create an atmosphere of luxury and spaciousness as well. A full length mirror on the inside of the door is desirable. A mirror of a minimum height of 1'6" can be fixed above the wash basin wiyh the top of the mirror at a minimum height of 6'0" from the floor. A medicine cabinet with mirrored doors can be used instead.

• MISCELLANEOUS ACTIVITIES - Families with infants, prefer to bathe them in the  wash basin or bathtub. Spo increased counter top space at the wash basin will allow for bathing and dressing an infant, hair washing, light laundry etc. The minimum space needed to bathe and dress a baby is 5'0" wide x 11'6" deep x 3'0" high. When a large wash basin and countertop space are provided, it can also be used for dressing up.

LOCATION OF BATHROOM:
Ideally each bathroom should be located near a Bedroom. In addition, one should consider the wind directions and the sun position, in order that the sunrays dry up the bathroom quickly and the wind flow allows for fresh air to enter the bathroom and the humid air to leave it. For this it is best to refer the Vastu guidelines on the design of Bathrooms. Go to:  

• VAASTU SHASTRA | TOILETS, BATHROOMS

Related Topics:

• BATHROOM FIXTURES
• BATHROOM TYPES
• DESIGN OF OTHER ROOMS IN A HOUSE

DESIGN OF A CLOSET | PLANNING

Storage space in a House is always not enough. Most families nowadays have so much clothing, toys, and other stuff requiring a lot of storage space. It is always better to have more storage space than not enough. So, at the planning stage itself, you can reserve some areas for storage.

A cabinet, cupboard or enclosed recess for storing or hanging linens, household supplies or clothing is called a Closet. It is advisable to have a small space reserved exclusively for a Clothes Closet, within the Bedroom or adjacent to it next to the toilet. It can either be a Walk-in or a Walk-through.

WALK-IN AND WALK-THROUGH CLOSETS:

• Walk-in closet: It is a room with open or closed shelves on 2 or 3 walls into which you walk in to store and view clothes. It is like walking into a large enough closet.
• Walk-through Closet: It is a room through which you walk, to enter another space and has shelves on the walls. Usually this is the space you walk through, to enter an attached toilet from the bedroom.

PLANNING CONSIDERATIONS:

• A lot of stuff can be stored in a small space if the space is planned properly. Many closets have unused and unusable space due to poor planning. Good Closet design requires planning, arrangement and fixtures. Some of the important planning considerations are:
• Easy accessibility.
• Good lighting for maximum visibility,
• Good ventilation to retain freshness.
• Maximum use of space,
• Orderliness,
• Preservation from dust and moths,
• Safety from pilferage,
• Preservation of pressed Clothes in the same condition.

1. EASY ACCESSIBILITY:

• Doors which expose the full width of the closet are preferable for easy accessibility and good visibility.
• Hinged doors allow you to see the full closet. They are economical and most efficient. Also, hooks racks, accessories can be fixed to the backs of hinged swinging doors, thus using unoccupied space in the closet. However they stick out into the space that you are standing in and can block traffic.
• Roller doors - which roll up or roll to the sides. These have the advantages and disadvantages of the sliding doors. They are not very popular, because the working is a bit clumsy and not very smooth.
• Sliding doors - There are 2 types- doors that slide into the adjacent walls to expose the full width of the closet and doors that slide behind each other to expose only half the closet at a time. Sliding doors have an advantage that they do not obstruct the space in front and do not block traffic. However, Sliding doors are more expensive than hinged doors. Door fixtures like tie racks, shoe racks, mirrors etc cannot be fitted to the backs of sliding doors thus wasting some unoccupied space.

2. VISIBILITY WITH GOOD LIGHTING -

• Nowadays, lighting within the closet is considered essential, unless the room lights are so located that they can fully illuminate all portions of the closet.
• A single tube or bulb light with diffusing reflector placed just above the door inside the front of the closet is sufficient.
• Automatic lights - which get switched on opening the door - are convenient.

3. VENTILATION

• Ventilation is often desirable particularly for closets where damp, outer garments or work clothes can be stored.
• This can be achieved by providing louvers in the Closet doors or by having lovered doors.

4. BASIC ELEMENTS (FIXTURES) -

• The standard elements of Closet storage are Shelves, Poles, Hooks, Drawers, special fixtures. With the proper arrangement of these fixtures, the maximum use of space, orderliness, preservation from dust and safety from pilferage can be achieved in the storage of items. Here is a brief description of the advantages and disadvantages of the basic fixtures.

SHELVES-

• They are simple, inexpensive and easy to install. They are adaptable to the storage of different sized items. However, if shelves are kept open, like within a Walk-in or Walk-through closet, they are exposed to dust.
• Also if the shelves are deep, small objects become hidden behind one another. Therefore, usually a 1' deep shelf is considered adequate to store many things. However, items of greater depth like linens should be stored on deeper shelves of about 1'4".
• The shelves should always be within reach. Any shelf above 5'6" from the floor should be used only for the storage of items that require infrequent access.

POLES-

• Poles are essential in closets for storing suits, shirts, women's clothing on hangers. They allow maximum clothing to be stored because men's clothing just requires 3" per hanger for suits while women's clothing requires just 2" per hanger.
• The height of the pole should be 5'4" from the floor.
• The diameter of the pole, either a hardwood or steel pole should be around 1".
• The clearance between the pole and the shelf above should be at least 3" to allow the easy movement and removal of the hangers.
• If the pole is more than 4' in length, then an intermediate support is required.
• Nowadays you can get extension poles and special-purpose hanging rods.

HOOKS AND SPECIAL FEATURE FIXTURES -

• A variety of hooks are available. They can be fixed on the inside of the door of the closet for storing belts, ties, bags, hats etc.
• Special space saving shoe racks, pull-out pant racks and miscellaneous racks are available in the market nowadays.
• Mirrors can be fitted on the inside of the door of the closet to allow one to dress. Or hinged mirrors can be fixed in front of the shelves to enclose them and prevent dust.

DRAWERS -

• They are quite popular now in closets, because they accommodate numerous articles within a minimum space and with maximum convenience.
• Also, they provide dust-free storage and present a neat appearance even if they are cluttered inside. Drawers are an incentive to keep things orderly.
• Drawers of different widths and heights can be planned in one section of the closet to store the possessions of the user depending on the size and type.
• If the drawers are not constructed by a skilled carpenter and made of cheap materials, then there is the possibility that they will not operate freely and can disintegrate over time.

Related Topics:

• DESIGN OF A CLOSET | TYPES AND SIZES
• DESIGN OF OTHER ROOMS IN A HOUSE

DESIGN OF A BEDROOM | PLANNING

Once you have met with your Architect, and given your requirements, he will design according to your Site size, budget and site conditions. The main things to look out for in the design solution are whether:

• The minimum, basic room sizes which are considered comfortable for use and for good furniture arrangement have been maintained. It is always important to have a comfortable sized Bedroom as the size cannot be changed later (unless you are prepared for large scale renovation). Even if you have a small site, it is not advisable to have a tiny Bedroom, because you will be forced to adjust to small, cramped living spaces for the rest of your life,
• All the planning considerations such as, furniture, clearances, space allowances, doors, windows etc for the Bedroom have been taken into account.
• The Bedroom location and orientation is according to the cardinal directions, so that it gets the right amount of Sunlight and air.

Here, I have explained the design considerations, furniture and the minimum basic sizes for a Bedroom for your reference.

BEDROOM FUNCTIONS:

• Primary Activities: Sleeping, Dressing/Undressing, Storing Clothes, Personal Care.
• Secondary Activities: Reading, Writing, Studying, Working, Watching TV, Listening to music, Caring for Infants, Sewing, Telephoning, Drawing/Painting, Doing Exercise, Resting and Convalescing, Hobbies, Storing bulk/seasonal items.

PLANNING CONSIDERATIONS FOR A BEDROOM:

• The number of occupants of the bedroom - whether Single Occupancy or Double Occupancy.
• The age of the occupants - whether a Master Bedroom, Children's Bedroom or a Guest Bedroom.
• Size and type of Furniture.
• Space allowance for Furniture.
• Clearance and space around the Furniture for movement.
• Storage space for clothes, dressing etc

FURNITURE OF A BEDROOM: The Typical pieces of furniture in a Bedroom and their sizes are listed below. The sizes may vary a little from yours but it does not affect the overall size of the Bedroom.

• Beds: There are several types of beds depending on the number of people sharing them:
• Single Bed - 3'0" x 6'10" (Cramped for an adult but suitable for a child)
• Twin Bed - 3'3" x 6'10" or 3'4" x 7'0" ( Okay for an adult)
• Double Bed - 4'6" x 6'10" or 4'6" x 7'0" (Cramped for 2 adults, but okay for 2 children)
• Queen Size- 5'0" x 6'10" or 5' x 7'0" (Cramped for 2 adults but okay for an adult and a child)
• King Size Bed - 6'6" x 6'10" or 6'6" x 7'0" (Comfortable for 2 adults)
• Crib - 2'0" x 4'6" or 2'8" x 5'0"
• Bunk Bed - 2'8" x 6'3" (Suitable for 2 children)
• Dressing Table - 1'3" x 3'0", 1'6" x 3'6", 2'0" x 4'0" etc.
• Dresser or Chest of Drawers - 1'6" x 3'0", 1'10" x 4'0"
• Bedside Table - 1'2" x 1'2", 1'6" x 1'6", 2'0" x 2'0"
• Desk - 1'6" x 3'4", 1'8" x 3'6"
• Chair - 1'6" x 1'6"
• Boudoir Chair - 2'6" x 3'
• Chaise Lounge - 2' x 4', 2'4" x 5' etc.
• Closet or Wardrobe - Each shutter size is about 1'6" x 7'0". A 2 shutter Wardrobe is the minimum in a single occupancy bedroom and a 4 shutter or 6 shutter closet is necessary in a double occupancy Bedroom.

CLEARANCES: To ensure adequate space for movement and the convenient use of furniture in the Bedroom, the following minimum clearances must be observed:

• At least 2" clearance should be allowed between the wall and the furniture.
• A minimum of 3" should be kept between furniture units.
• A minimum of 3'6" space between the foot of the bed and the dressing table/ dresser for dressing.
• At least 3' in front of Closet, Dresser/Chest of Drawers to open and use them.
• A minimum of 2' on one side of bed to allow for movement and making bed.
• At least 1' on the least used side of the bed for making the bed. However, in case of single beds, they can be placed against the wall on the least used side.
• A minimum of 2'6" for movement from the door through the room
• A 5' turning diameter for a wheelchair.

BEDROOM LOCATION:
The bedroom is a private space used for rest, relaxation, reading, writing, working, listening to music, convalescing, sleeping, phoning etc. Hence there is a need for privacy, quiet and peace. It should also be well lit and airy and preferably be near some green garden etc as the oxygen released by plants is rejuvenating. It should be away from the noisy parts of the house and the rooms where guests are entertained. To get some tips on the best location for Bedrooms, go to:

• VAASTU SHASTRA | BEDROOM

Related Topics:

• DESIGN OF A BEDROOM | ARRANGEMENT
• TYPES OF BEDS
• DESIGN OF OTHER ROOMS IN A HOUSE

DESIGN OF A DINING ROOM | PLANNING

Once you have met with your Architect, and given your requirements, he will design according to your Site size, budget and site conditions. The main things to look out for in the design solution are whether:

• The minimum, basic room sizes which are considered comfortable for use and for good furniture arrangement have been maintained. It is always important to have a comfortable sized Dining room as the size cannot be changed later (unless you are prepared for large scale renovation).
• All the planning considerations such as, furniture, clearances, space allowances, doors, windows etc for the Dining room have been taken into account.
• The Dining room location and orientation is according to the cardinal directions , so that it gets the right amount of Sunlight and air.

Here, I have explained the design considerations, furniture and the minimum basic sizes for a Dining Room for your reference.

PLANNING CONSIDERATIONS FOR A DINING ROOM:

• The principal factors to be considered in planning the Dining Room are: Number of persons to be seated. Seating arrangement. Space used at table. Size and type of Furniture Space allowance for furniture. Space around the furniture for passage and accessing. Storage space for china, glassware, silver etc.

DINING ROOM FUNCTIONS -

• Primary Activities: A dining room is primarily used for Setting the table, Serving the food, Eating, Cleaning up after meals, Storing cutlery and crockery.  
• Secondary Activities: A dining room can also be used for Children's play or study and homework, Reading, Writing, Entertainment, Board Games, Sewing, Watching TV, Ironing clothes.

FLEXIBILITY - The Dining room should have flexibility, in that, one should be able to put it to various uses, like dining, recreation, board games, studying, reading, sewing, ironing, etc. This is possible by having adequate space for varied furniture arrangements. If space allows, you can have some sofas and a TV so that you can use the room for entertainment, family activities and guests.

FURNITURE IN A DINING ROOM- Based on the primary and secondary functions of a Dining Room, the typical pieces of furniture used are listed below:

• Dining Table - Tables with seating on 2 sides are generally larger than tables with seating on 4 sides. However, the required room size for seating on 2 sides is smaller than rooms with tables having seating on 4 sides.
• Dining Chairs - 1'6"x1'6", 1'10"x1'10"
• Sideboard - 4'0"x1'8", 5'0"x1'9"
• Crockery Cabinet (Showcase) - 3'0"x1'3", 4'0"x1'3", 5'0"x1'3" depending on your requirement.
• Sofas and TV- If space permits.

SPECIFIC SPACE ALLOWANCES IN A DINING ROOM - Recommended Space allowances based on research are listed below:

• SIZE OF EACH SEAT - The minimum width along the perimeter of the table, needed for each place setting is 1'9". A width of 2'0 is comfortable. This allows chairs of size 1'6" to be placed at least 6"apart. However a width of upto 2'5" is desirable for greater freedom to allow elbow extension etc. 

• PASSAGE BEHIND CHAIRS - The minimum space for passage behind chairs is 1'10" though 2'0" is ideal. The minimum depth for a place setting is 1'2". So a minimum space of 3'2" should be maintained between the dining table and the wall to enable a person to pass behind people who are already seated at the table.

• SIZE OF TABLE - The minimum width of a Dining table is 3'0", though upto 3'8" is more comfortable. The size of a dining table depends on the number of members of the family and the number of guests who are entertained. As a thumb of rule, you can have a dining table to seat 2 persons more than the number of people in your family. For example, in 4 person house, you can have a 6 seater table, in a 6 person house, a table for 8 persons can be used.
• The minimum dining table sizes are listed below:
• Table for two - 2'6"x2'6"
• Table for four (seating on 4 sides) - 2'6"x3'2", (seating on 2 sides) - 2'8"x4'0"
• Table for six (seating on 4 sides) - 4'0"x3'0", (seating on 2 sides) - 6'0"x3'4"
• Table for eight (seating on 4 sides) - 4'0"x3'4", (seating mainly on 2 sides) - 6'0"x3'4"
• Table for ten (seating on 4 sides) - 6'0"x4'0"
• At least 5'0" distance should be kept between the TV and seating for comfortable viewing.

• STORAGE SPACE- In most houses, around 21'0" to 30'0" linear length of shelf space is required for displaying and storing crockery, cutlery, glasses, cups and saucers, etc for everyday use and guest use. The shelves can be fixed within the sideboard and the crockery cabinet.

CLEARANCES IN DINING ROOM - Adequate clearances should be provided around the dining table to allow for the efficient and comfortable use of the Dining room. In some cases, greater clearances are required to accommodate the needs of elderly people with wheelchairs etc. The following clearances from the edge of the table should be observed:

• A minimum of 2'8" to access chairs but is not sufficient for passage behind the chairs.
• A minimum of 3'2" to access chairs plus allow for passage behind the chairs.
• A minimum of 3'6" to allow for serving from behind the chair.
• A minimum of 2'0" for only passage.
• A minimum of 4'0" from table to cabinet or sideboard.

DINING ROOM LOCATION-
The Dining room is the space where the family sits together to have a meal and where guests are entertained. The Location of a Dining room depends on factors like the proximity to the Living room, the Kitchen, wash basin etc. For Vastu tips on the best location for a Dining Room go to:

• VAASTU SHASTRA | DINING ROOM.

Related Topics:

• DESIGN OF A DINING ROOM | SIZES
• DESIGN OF OTHER ROOMS IN A HOUSE

 

DESIGN OF A LIVING ROOM | PLANNING

Once you have met with your Architect, and given your requirements, he will design according to your Site size, budget and site conditions. The main things to look out for in the design solution are whether:

• The minimum, basic room sizes which are considered comfortable for use and for good furniture arrangement have been maintained. It is always important to have a comfortable sized Living room as the size cannot be changed later (unless you are prepared for large scale renovation). Even if you have a small site, it is not advisable to have a tiny Living room, because you will be forced to adjust to small, cramped living spaces for the rest of your life,
• All the planning considerations such as, furniture, clearances, space allowances, doors, windows etc for the Living room have been taken into account.
• The Living room location and orientation is according to the cardinal directions , so that it gets the right amount of Sunlight and air.

Here, I have explained the design considerations, furniture and the minimum basic sizes for a Living Room for your reference.

PLANNING CONSIDERATIONS FOR A LIVING ROOM:

• The principal factors to be considered in planning the Living Room are:
• Number of persons to be seated or entertained.
• Seating arrangement.
• Size of Furniture
• Space allowance for furniture.
• Space around the furniture for passage and accessing.
• Traffic Passage between Main door and doors leading to other rooms.

FURNITURE- A living Room has mainly furniture for seating, conversation and Viewing TV. Typically, there will be the main, primary conversation group and a smaller, secondary conversation group. Here, I have described the normal sizes of the furniture in a Living room. However furniture sizes may vary slightly.

• Sofas - Two Seater Sofas- 4'6" x 2'6",
• Three Seater Sofas -7'0" x 3'0", or 6'6" x 2'6" and
• Single Seater Sofa - 2'6" x 2'6" or 2'3" x 2'3"
• Armchairs - 2'0"x 2'4", 2'3" x 2'4"etc
• Sofa cum bed or Divan - 2'6" x 7'0"
• Centre Table - Rectangular- 2'0" x 1'3", 3'0" x 2'0" etc
• Circular- 3'0" dia., 2'6" dia.
• Side Table - Square- 1'8"x1'8", 1'6"x1'6"; Circular- 2'0" dia, 1'8" dia.
• Show case or TV/Music Unit - 4'0" to 5'0" in length and around 1'6" wide.
• Card Table - 3'0" x 3'0"
• Piano - Grand - 9'0" x 5'0", 7'0" x 5'0", 6'0" x 5'0", 5'6"x 5'0"; 
• Piano Rectangular - 5'0" x 2'0", 4'8"x1'7"

 SPECIFIC SPACE ALLOWANCES:- When designing, adequate floor space should be provided for the furniture groupings. Certain clearances are required between the furniture pieces. Planners have established the minimum distances for comfort as well as the maximum distance for comfortable conversations. They are listed below:

• It is advisable to have minimum of 5' between opposite sofas and a maximum of 6' for comfortable conversation.
• A minimum space of 2' should be kept where circulation occurs between tall furniture.
• At least 1'6" should be kept when circulation occurs between low furniture.
• A minimum of 3' is required behind an occupied chair, to permit a person to pass by.
• At least 5' distance should be kept between the TV and the seating for comfortable viewing.
• Seating arranged around a 10' diameter circle makes a comfortable grouping for conversation.

FLEXIBILITY - The Living room should have flexibility, in that, one should be able to put it to various uses, like sleeping, dining, recreation, family etc. This is possible by having adaptable furniture. For example, a sofa can be converted into a bed, or a divan can be used as a bed if required when there are extra guests.

CLEARANCES-Traffic tolerances in a Living room are important, since a number of people use this room. and narrow lanes between furniture group are uncomfortable. Some basic minimum clearances must be considered:

• An adequate traffic lane between the main entrance and the major seating group should be provided - at least 3'4" but preferably 4'6". For bigger rooms, it is advisable to have a even wider traffic lane.
• Through traffic should be separated from the furniture groups as much as possible, so that one does not have to walk through the group to go to another room.
• The main traffic lane through the room should be a minimum of 3'4" though 4'6" is preferred.

LOCATION OF LIVING ROOM:
The Living room is the space where guests are entertained and the first impression is made. In many houses, it is also a kind of Family room, where the family sits together to watch TV or have discussions. The Location of a Living room depends on factors like the main Road, the Foyer, the main entrance door, orientation etc. For Vastu tips on the best location for a Living Room go to:

• VAASTU SHASTRA | LIVING ROOM

Related Topics:

• DESIGN OF A LIVING ROOM | SIZES
• DESIGN OF OTHER ROOMS IN A HOUSE

DESIGN DRAWINGS OF AN ARCHITECT

A designer’s (Architect’s) principal language is through his drawings. 
Drawings express his intentions clearly and are the means by which he discusses with the Client, the Contractor, the Consultants and the Authorities. 

Designs of specialists and consultants can be planned and co-ordinated on the basis of the Architect’s drawings. They enable quantities of materials and prices to be estimated, tenders to be drawn up, work to be planned by the Contractor and to be carried out at site. Also drawings are internationally readable.

DRAWING SIZES:Drawings are presented on the following standard sizes of sheets:

• A0 – 841 X 1189mm
• A1 – 594 X 841mm (Half of A0)
• A2 – 420 X 594mm (Half of A1)
• A3 – 297 X 420mm (Half of A2)
• A4 – 210 X 297mm (Half of A3)

These sizes are proportional, leading to a simple reduction and enlargement – sheets may easily be folded to a smaller size – as it is easier to handle in the office and on site. Drawings generally are preferred on the smallest standard sheet size compatible with clarity. Drawing sheets larger than A0 are avoided as they are too big to handle at site.

TYPES OF DRAWINGS:

Architectural Design deals with the design of a building structure and an Architect prepares different types of drawings to explain his design such as:

FLOOR PLANS:

• It is the top view of an object. In case of Buildings, the building is imagined to be cut horizontally at any level, and viewed from the top.
• The top view of the cut building is called a Floor Plan since you can see the floor of the building along with the wall thickness and the windows.
• In this plan the inner room (horizontal) dimensions, wall thickness, window sizes are indicated. Floor plans will also include details of fixtures like sinks, water heaters, furnaces, etc. Floor plans will include notes to specify finishes, construction methods, or symbols for electrical items.

ELEVATION:

• It is the vertical view of a building seen when you are standing in front of it. It is different from a perspective view in that, an elevation is only two-dimensional while a perspective is three-dimensional.
• An elevation indicates the heights from floor to floor, the window cill height and window lintel height, as well as the overall height of the building.
• Normally since a building has 4 sides, four elevations (one for each side ) are sufficient to explain the design.

SECTION:

• The building is imagined to be cut vertically to reveal the interior and the resulting vertical view is called the Section.
• The section indicates the room heights, door window heights, staircase details, lift details etc and it is useful in explaining the interior building design.

PERSPECTIVE:

The 3 Dimensional view showing at least two sides of the building is called a Perspective view. There are different types of perspective, like:

• Birds-View Perspective, wherein, you can see the building from above just as you would see it if you were a bird in the sky. This perspective is useful for seeing an entire complex of buildings as each and every one of the buildings can be seen. But the disadvantage is that you can only see most of the top of the building. So for a clear view of the building from ground level you need to see a Worms-view Perspective as described below.

• Worms-view Perspective- In this perspective, you can see the building as if you were standing right in front of it. This perspective is an almost real picture of the building. But the disadvantage of this perspective, is that in case of a huge residential complex, you can see only one building of the large complex. To see all the buildings of the entire complex you will need individual perspectives of each building.

ARCHITECTURAL MODELS:

An architectural model is a tangible (physical) 3-dimensional representation of a structure built to study aspects of an architectural design or to communicate design ideas to clients as it gives an almost realistic view of the proposed building.
 
PURPOSE OF ARCHITECTURAL MODELS: Architectural models are used by architects for a range of purposes:

• To study the design - Quick, models are made by Architects, to study the interaction of volumes, or to get an idea of how they appear from different angles which helps to explore ideas.
• For selling the design - Models are an efficient method for exhibiting and selling a design., since many people, including developers and would-be house buyers, cannot visualise a design in three dimensions (3-D) from two-dimensional (2-D) drawings. 
• For explaining the design - A model is useful in explaining a complicated or unusual design to the building team.
• As a show piece - Models are also used as show pieces or replicas in the reception of a prestigious building, or as part of a museum exhibition.

ARCHITECTURAL MODELS:

There are different types of models depending on the requirement of the Client. The models range in detail from very simple, formal, massing models of just a few cuboid blocks up to detailed interior/exterior models complete with furnishings and landscaping. Some of the types of models are:

• Exterior models- of buildings which usually include some landscaping around the building.
• Interior models- are models showing interior spaces with finishes, colors and furniture.
• Landscaping design models- are models of landscape design representing features such as walkways, small bridges, pergolas and vegetation patterns.
• Urban models- are models built at a small scale representing several city blocks, even a whole town or village and such. Urban models are a vital tool for town/city planning and development.
• Construction models- show isolated building/structure elements and components and their interaction.
• Virtual architectural models- Over the last few decades, virtual models using CAD (Computer Aided Design) allow visual fly-throughs or walk-throughs. While virtual tours are undoubtedly useful, they are still limited to images on a computer screen and lack the sensory impact of a physical model. 

MATERIALS USED FOR ARCHITECTURAL MODELS:  

Common materials used for years have been wood blocks, balsa wood, basswood and other woods. Nowadays, architectural model builders use materials such as Taskboard, cardboard, polystyrene, foam, foam board, a variety of plastics and wooden-plastic composites.
A number of companies produce ready made 'scenery elements' like furniture, vehicles, people figurines, trees, street lights, bushes and other features. These serve not only to beautify the model, but also to help the observer to obtain a correct feel of scale and proportions represented by the model.

This post is about the architectural design drawings and models that an Architect prepares for explaining his design to the client. After obtaining the Client's approval, the Architect needs to prepare detailed  architectural design drawings for the Consultants, Contractors and the building team. Read about it here:

• DETAILED ARCHITECTURAL DRAWINGS

DESIGN DRAWINGS GIVEN TO A CLIENT

A Client may be unaware of the drawings he is entitled to get at different stages of the project. Here, I have summarily described the kind of drawings he can expect from the Architect and the Consultants working on the Project. 

These drawings provide an accurate, complete and to-scale graphic depiction of the design concept and a major portion of the construction information needed to build the project. They enable the Client, Contractor, Consultants and the workmen at site to understand the project completely.

DRAWINGS PRESENTED TO THE CLIENT BY THE ARCHITECT:
An Architect presents different drawings at different Stages as given below:

• Concept Drawings – After the initial discussions with the Client.
• Preliminary Drawings – Once the Concept Drawings are approved, further drawings (preliminary Drawings) are prepared.
• Sanction Drawings (to Authorities) – for approval and sanction from Authorities.
• Tender Drawings – Detailed Drawings for preparation and invitation of Tender.
• Working Drawings– Detailed drawings that convey the (technical) information necessary for the Construction of the building project.

'CONCEPT DRAWINGS' :

• This is a set of drawings prepared by the Architect in accordance with the Client’s brief. They are the first plans presented to a Client.
• They are basic plans indicating the layout of the building, the approximate sizes of the rooms and the setbacks of the building within the site. These drawings give the Client an idea of the design layout of his building, the circulation spaces, the positioning of the rooms with reference to each other, and the approximate sizes.
• The Client is free to give suggestions and request for changes. The Architect makes the necessary changes accordingly and the Client gives any further suggestions which will again be incorporated in the drawings.
• Only after the Client has approved the design, does the Architect move to the next stage of drawings. In case the Client is unable to understand the design from the plans, the Architect may explain it further with sketches or study elevations or he may get a study model or perspective made ( at extra cost) .

'PRELIMINARY DRAWINGS' :

• Once the Concept Drawings are approved, the Architect prepares Preliminary Drawings. These are Plans, Elevations and sometimes Sections with exact room dimensions, wall thickness, setbacks and window positions. 
• The Client gets an idea of how his building is going to look and he is free to give his suggestions – accordingly they will be incorporated.
• This set of drawings will also include a Furniture Layout drawing which gives an idea of how the furniture can be placed in each room and the space of the room with relation to the furniture.
• It may also include an external site drawing to show the number of cars that can be parked and the area available for landscape and play areas etc.
• The Architect may also commission a perspective or walkthrough ( at extra cost) to give the Client a 3-D view of the building

'SANCTION DRAWINGS':

These include Site Plan, Plans, Elevations and Sections etc, in the required format and to the required scale for getting approval from the Authorities. At the right hand side of the sheet, details such as the Owner’s details, the site details, adjacent properties survey numbers, the Architect’s name, address and Council of Architecture-Registration Number are mentioned.

'TENDER DRAWINGS':

• These drawings convey a lot of information about the project to enable the Contractors who are quoting for the Job to understand the project completely.
• They are detailed drawings with exact dimensions, wall thicknesses, specifications, column beam sizes and positions, schedules of doors & windows, levels and heights in the building. Any unusual building design elements which cannot be fully explained by specifications only, are explained with the help of tender drawings.
• They are useful for the Consultants who can use them to prepare their final drawings.
• The Tender Drawings are also useful for preparing the bill of quantities and specifications for the Tender.

'WORKING DRAWINGS':

Working Drawings are drawings of the whole or part of a structure, made to a scale, and intended to be understood by the Contractor and followed by the workmen at site. These drawings are an extension of the Tender Drawings and convey the bulk of the technical information about the building project and are generally issued to Site for Construction purpose.

A Working Drawing will typically have a title panel at the bottom of the right hand corner of the sheet to aid reference when the sheet is folded. This title panel will generally indicate:

• Orientation – North is indicated as N.
• Scale – of the drawing
• Date – of the completed Drawing
• Job – Title and Job Number.
• Drawing Title – Name of the Sheet (plan, elevation…)
• Client - name and address of Site
• Architect – name and address
• Consultants – name and addresses
• Revision – List and dates
• Key diagram – in large projects a key diagram with the appropriate part blacked out is shown

Working Drawings will include the following drawings and are always read in conjunction with the Consultants Drawings:

• Site Plan indicating setbacks and position of building, existing levels and intended new levels.
• Excavation, Foundation and Centre line Drawings indicating excavation pit sizes, column positions, dimensions, centre line distances, etc.
• Detailed Floor Plans of all the floors indicating all the dimensions – walls, rooms, columns, lifts and staircases etc. as well as the floor levels.
• Detailed Elevations indicating the levels of the floors and the heights. Any elevational treatment elements will be explained with additional drawings.
• Detailed Sections wherever necessary to explain the different levels and heights within the building, and to explain staircases, lift heights.
• Detailed Staircase drawings and Lift drawings.
• Door and Window Drawings indicating material used and the section sizes. If there are grills on the windows, the grill design drawings are also included.
• Any other drawings necessary to explain any design element.

DRAWINGS PREPARED BY THE CONSULTANTS:

• Structural Consultant – Centre line Drawings, Excavation Drawings, Foundation detail drawings, Column layout Drawings with steel details, Beam layout Drawings with steel details, Centering Drawings, Lintel Drawings, Slab Drawings with details, Lift wall and room details, Staircase structural details, stc
• Electrical consultant – Electrical Drawing showing all the light, fan switch points in the building, Wiring and Circuit drawings, panel board, meter board locations and specifications, generator room, UPS room and circuit etc.
• Plumbing Consultant – Plumbing Drawings showing all the taps, W.C., Wash Basin positions, traps, manholes, Sump, Septic tank locations etc, Pipeline Drawings indicating the sanitary and water lines, the thickness of the pipes, the good brands, pump location and brand, water tanks location and number in case of more than two different sources of water etc.
• H.V.A.C Consultant  – Air Conditioning Drawings indicating location of Air conditioners etc.
• Landscape Consultant - All the landscape layout plans, details of landscape elements, water bodies details, plants and tree names etc.

AS-BUILT DRAWINGS:

As the name suggests, these are drawings of the completed building exactly as it is built. These drawings are usually required by the Authorities before they issue the occupation certificate. The owner of the building can occupy the building only after getting the occupation.

This post is about the different design drawings prepared by an Architect, from the time he first meets with the client till the completion of the project. For an explanation of the Architectural design drawings and 3-dimensional architectural models, go to:

• DESIGN DRAWINGS OF AN ARCHITECT